Tag: cliff dwelling

Devil’s Pocket Loop Hiking Guide


Devil’s Pocket Loop is a hike that starts at Devil’s Kitchen Campground, follows the bottom of a rift valley, climbs over the Pinnacle – an amalgamation of needles – skirts along the edge of Chesler Park, then descends through a different gap in the Pinnacle.

On the way back, views of the La Sal Mountains and Elephant Canyon open up before the trail returns to Devil’s Kitchen.

Looking toward the Pinnacle from Devil's Kitchen
Looking toward the Pinnacle from Devil’s Kitchen. April 2019

Quick Facts

  • Distance: 6 miles
  • Hike Time: 3-4 hours
  • Elevation Gain/Loss: 500 feet
  • Fee: $10 per vehicle. You also need a day-use permit for Elephant Hill
  • Dogs: No
  • Difficulty: Moderate

Hiking the Devil’s Pocket Loop

From Devil’s Kitchen, walk eastward along the dirt road until you reach the trailhead. Here you have the option to head south or continue east. This is a loop hike so you can go either way, but in this hiking guide I’ll cover the southerly direction.

The single track footpath runs along the flat bottom of a canyon formed by faults on either side. In the distance, there is a disarray of needlelike rocks. These magnificent sandstone spires are what give Needles District its name.

After 1.2 miles, the trail starts an abrupt climb to the top of a saddle, before descending into another canyon on the other side. At 1.7 miles, you’ll reach a junction. Bear left here, then continue up the steep slick rock sandstone.

Indian Paintbrush next to the trail
Indian paintbrush next to the trail. April 2019

About a half mile climb from the junction, you’ll see your first views of Chesler Park – a grassy meadow in the desert, surrounded by bizarre needles.

At around 3 miles into the hike, you’ll reach another junction at a particularly sandy portion of trail. Bear left here to climb back over the Pinnacle. However, be sure to take pause at the top to soak in the incredible view.

The view from the second pass over the Pinnacle
Views from the Pinnacle

Once you’ve reached bottom at the other side of the Pinnacle, you’ll hit another junction. The path to your right takes you to Druid Arch. Bear left to continue toward Devil’s Kitchen.

From this point, the trail meanders along the edge of a prominent ridge to the left, with views of Elephant Canyon to the right.

Finally, 5.5 miles into the hike, the trail finds a gap in the ridge, descending into a narrow canyon that leads you back to the trailhead.

Kim stands in an alcove we scrambled up to near the trail
Kim stands in an alcove we scrambled up to near the trail


Devil’s Kitchen is located 3.5 miles from Elephant Hill Trailhead and can be reached by a technical 4WD road over Elephant Hill, by foot, or by mountain bike.

If you intend to drive it, make sure you know what you’re doing! Driving over Elephant Hill is only reserved for experienced off road experts with capable rigs.

To reach Elephant Hill Trailhead from Moab, take U.S. Route 191 southbound for 39.6 miles then turn right onto Utah State Route 211. Continue for 37.2 miles then turn left and follow signs for Elephant Hill.

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A weather-worn, dead juniper rests on the high desert plateau
The trail winds through some fantastic terrain
We took cover from a brief rain shower underneath this alcove
Another wildflower. I'm not sure what this one is called
Another wildflower. I’m not sure what this one is called

Want to hike Utah’s best trails? Check out our other Utah Hiking Guides.

Fay Canyon Hiking Guide


The hike through Fay Canyon is short, easy, and beautiful, which makes it an excellent choice for groups with young children and elderly members. For the more adventurous, there is an arch and several ruins here to explore as well.

Situated northeast of Sedona, Fay Canyon is eroded from Bear Mountain, which rises 1,600 feet above. The trail follows a wash for 1.2 miles along the canyon bottom and is surrounded by towering red sandstone walls.

Less than 1/2 mile in, there is a spur trail to the right that takes you to Fay Canyon Arch. Despite the arch’s enormity, it is difficult to make out from the main trail and the turnoff is somewhat unclear. However, with enough patience and nosing around you should be able to find it.

Fay Canyon Arch
Fay Canyon Arch. February 2019

Quick Facts

  • Distance: 2.4 miles out and back
  • Hike Time: 1-2 hours
  • Elevation Gain/Loss: 215 feet
  • Fee: Free, but Red Rock Pass or America the Beautiful Pass are required to park
  • Dogs: Yes
  • Difficulty: Easy


The hike begins at Fay Canyon Trailhead, found at a parking lot off of Boynton Pass Road. The trail is on the other side of the road and takes you on a sandy footpath that winds through the piñon and juniper forest as it follows along a wash.

About 1/2 mile from the trailhead, there is a spur trail that leads to a giant natural arch called Fay Canyon Arch. The turnoff is on the right but is often washed out so it may be hard to see. If you look at the lower portion of the cliffs to your right, you might be able to make out the arch.

If you see the “wine glass”, an appropriately named rock formation to the right, you have passed the arch. Backtrack a few hundred feet and continue searching for it.

Notice the “Wine Glass” on the right side of this photo. February 2019

After a little over a mile of hiking up canyon, you will reach the end of the maintained trail. At this point, you have the option to continue exploring the left or right fingers of the canyon. Be sure to scan the cliff walls in this area for alcoves. Some of these contain ruins left by the prehistoric Sinagua people. Please do not disturb these or remove any artifacts.

Kim next to an ancient ruin in Fay Canyon. February 2019


From Sedona, head west on Arizona State Route 89A for 3 miles. Turn right onto Dry Creek Road. After 2 miles, Boynton Pass Road turns into Dry Creek Road. Continue for 2.9 miles on Boynton Pass Road then turn left into the parking lot.

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Fay Canyon Map



Topographic Maps


Looking to the west from under Fay Canyon Arch. February 2019

Want to hike Sedona’s best trails? Check out our other Sedona Hiking Guides.

Aravaipa Canyon Backpacking Guide


Aravaipa Canyon is a remote area of wilderness located between Tucson and Phoenix, Arizona. Encased by sheer cliffs, Aravaipa Creek is a perennial water source that flows from the Galiuro Mountains, a nearby sky island range. Currently managed by the BLM, the Aravaipa Canyon Wilderness does not have designated trails, campsites, or facilities, though there is a ranger station at the West Entrance called Brandenburg Ranger Station.

Aravaipa Canyon still water reflections
There is endless beauty to be found in Aravaipa Canyon


On any given day, a maximum of fifty people are allowed to enter the canyon. For both day use and overnight, hikers must apply for permits online. Permits can be obtained for either the more accessible West Entrance or secluded East Entrance, where a reliable vehicle with high clearance is required (4WD recommended).

Get a Permit for Aravaipa Canyon

Typical scene in Aravaipa Canyon
A typical scene in Aravaipa Canyon

What to Expect

Be prepared to get your feet wet, as you will be walking in Aravaipa Creek for much of the 10.8 miles, from one end of the canyon to the other. High use seasons are March – May and October – November, when conditions are the best. During summer, daytime temperatures often exceed 100° F and flash floods occur frequently, often without warning. During winter, water and air temperatures are at their coldest with the occasional overnight freeze.

Although it is possible to do in a single day, I recommend spending at least one or two nights camping in Aravaipa Canyon. Strong hikers will be able to go from end to end in 6-8 hours, but this is highly dependent on the creek’s water flow. Click the button below to check its current water levels.

USGS Water Data for Aravaipa Canyon

Additional time can be spent exploring any of Aravaipa’s 11 side canyons. From west to east they are: Cave Canyon, Hells Half Acre Canyon, Javelina Canyon, Virgus Canyon, Horse Camp Canyon, Booger Canyon, Palisano Canyon, Deer Creek/Hell Hole Canyon, Parsons Canyon, Turkey Creek, and Bear Canyon.

Aravaipa Canyon flash flood debris
Piles of debris like this one are the result of devastating flash floods. Trekking pole for scale

What to Bring

If you plan to hike or backpack Aravaipa Canyon, there are some critical gear decisions to make. You will be ankle to knee-deep in Aravaipa Creek for most of the hike. The occasional misstep will put you waist deep in places and if you slip, you could be chest deep or fully submerged.

The Sonoran Desert is not known for being cold, but temperatures do plummet at night, especially in the winter. If you, your clothes, and/or your sleeping bag are wet, hypothermia is a real possibility.

Tip: Not sure which lightweight backpacking gear to buy? We’ve done the “heavy lifting” for you. See our top picks.


Bring shoes with lots of tread so you can get good traction. Do not use Gore-Tex, water resistant or waterproof shoes, because they will fill up with water as you slosh along and weigh you down. Some hiking shoes will work, but I prefer trail runners or water shoes with an aggressive grip. Teva, Chaco, or some other type of hiking sandal might work for some, but I tend to blister in those at longer distances.

Tip: Nobody likes blisters. Find out how to prevent them.

Also, sand and gravel get caught between my foot and the sandal sole which is irritating. If you are concerned about that happening with your trail runners, I suggest getting a pair of trail gaiters.

Altra Lone Peak 3.0

Altra Lone Peak 3.0 trail runners

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In winter, many Aravaipa Canyon backpackers use neoprene water socks to keep their feet insulated. These work the same as a wetsuit, but for your feet. If your feet run cold, this is the method for you. Otherwise, I recommend synthetic or merino wool sock liners with merino wool socks. The liner and sock method is a great combatant for blisters and merino wool retains its insulating properties when wet, so your feet will stay happy and warm!

NRS Hydroskin Wetsock

NRS Hydroskin Wetsock

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Darn Tough Hiker Micro Crew Cushion

Darn Tough hiking socks

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View at Darn Tough

Tip: We’ve tested a lot of different socks. Read about our favorites.

Dry Bag

Some backpackers use a trash bag or pack liner to keep their gear dry. At the very least, you should have a dry bag for your sleeping bag and packed clothing. This ensures that you won’t sleep wet if you end up in water that is deep enough to submerge your backpack. You can find Sea to Summit dry bags at most outdoor gear retailers, but they are unnecessarily heavy compared to ultralight dry bags. If you are interested in lighter weight options, here are a few good ones:

Why You Should Go

There are a lot of aspects to Aravaipa Canyon that make it unique. For one, there are relatively few drainages in Southern Arizona where water flows all year. Aravaipa Creek supports a lush riparian environment with an abundance of plant and animal life.

Except for its narrower sections, the canyon floor is filled with tall deciduous trees such as cottonwood, willow, and sycamore. On the creek’s grassy banks, throngs of mesquite provide a thorny barrier between you and the devilish scene above. Here, the terrain turns to something reminiscent of Wile E. Coyote and the Road Runner, except more rugged; dense forests of saguaro, barrel cactus, cholla, and palo verde clamor to the cliffside in defiance of gravity.

Hikers are certain to encounter wildlife here. On my trip in December 2018, I saw numerous white-tailed deer, three groups of coatis, wild turkeys, Harris’s hawks, and a heron. I was surprised to not see a black bear or bighorn sheep, both known inhabitants of Aravaipa Canyon. I was both disappointed and relieved to not be tracked by a mountain lion (Ed Abbey reported seeing one here in his piece, In the Land of Laughing Waters). The canyon is also host to a variety of reptiles, amphibians, and endangered fish.

Aside from its diverse flora and fauna, the canyon’s geology is a spectacular thing itself. As you wind your way through the canyon, be sure to pause and look up at the rock formations from time to time. Much of the rock you see is volcanic in origin and through powerful forces of heat, pressure, faulting, and erosion, has transformed into brown, buff, red, orange, and gray cathedrals, spires, hoodoos, and even arches (if you know where to look).

Finally, observant hikers might find remnants of Aravaipa Canyon’s ancient peoples. According to archeologists, hunter-gatherers occupied the area as early as 10,000 years ago and the agricultural Hohokam and Salado people inhabited the area until their sudden disappearance in A.D. 1450.

Turkey Creek Cliff Dwelling
Turkey Creek Cliff Dwelling, a well-preserved ruin used by the Salado in A.D. 1300

Quick Facts

  • Distance: 21.6 miles
  • Hike Time: 2-3 days
  • Elevation Gain: 460 feet
  • Fee: $5 per person/per day. Non-refundable $6 reservation fee
  • Dogs: No
  • Difficulty: Hard



West Entrance

Note: High clearance is recommended but not necessary for this route.

From Tucson, follow Speedway Boulevard east then turn left on Main Avenue, which turns into Oracle Road after 0.3 miles. Continue on Oracle Road for 19.8 miles then turn right on AZ-77. After 35.3 miles, turn right on Aravaipa Road. and follow it 12.2 miles (4.5 miles from the turnoff it becomes unpaved) to the West Trailhead.

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East Entrance

Notes: High clearance is required for this route, 4WD is recommended. If you don’t have 4WD, park at the small lot 2 miles before the entrance. Road(s) may be impassable when wet.

From Speedway Boulevard in Tucson, get on I-10 eastbound. Continue on I-10 for 83.3 miles then take exit 340 and turn left on AZ-186. Continue 15 miles then turn left on Brookerson Road. Continue 3.0 miles then turn left on Ash Creek. Continue 2.9 miles then turn right on Fort Grant Road. Continue 8.6 miles then turn left on Bonita Aravaipa Road. Continue 2.4 miles then turn left on Bonita Klondkye Road. Here, the road becomes unpaved. Continue 38.3 miles to the East Trailhead.

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Trip Reports

December 2018

In December 2018, I went on a solo backpacking trip to Aravaipa Canyon. I spent 3 days, 2 nights hiking through the main canyon and had time to explore Cave Canyon, Booger Canyon, Deer Creek/Hell Hole Canyon, and Turkey Creek. Weather conditions were mostly sunny with highs in the 60s and lows in the 30s.

Note: To see a full breakdown of the gear I carried and used on this trip, click here.

Day 1

  • Distance: 10.8 miles

Made it to the trailhead and started hiking around noon. Hiked a mile up Cave Canyon, hoping to reach a “cave house” supposedly built in the 1930s. Almost turned back when I reached a 10-15 foot cliff with a large chockstone. Was able to circumvent the obstacle by backtracking a hundred feet and scrambling up solid, grippy rock to the left. Was unable to continue much further as there was another, larger cliff with a deep pool below it.

Continued up the main canyon where I spotted a cave. I was able to scramble up, get inside it, and the view was great. Hiked another 1/2 mile where I found an established fire pit on a flat grassy area well-hidden by mesquite. Settled in for camp, started a fire, cooked dinner, and attempted to dry my socks. Once the stars were out, I backtracked a bit downstream to shoot some astrophotography.

A cave in Aravaipa Canyon
Looking out through the opening of a cave in Aravaipa Canyon

Day 2

  • Distance: 13.7 miles

Slept in, made breakfast, and took my time packing up. My camp was visited by three wild turkeys. Started hiking at 10 a.m. After 2 1/2 miles, I reached the East Trailhead where I was greeted by a group of coatis. Bore right at Turkey Canyon and headed up the dirt road. After 2 miles, I took the short trail up to a well-preserved cliff dwelling. Turned around and headed back down the main canyon. Hiked 1 1/2 miles up Deer Creek/Hell Hole Canyon and was in total awe of the narrows. To my delightful surprise, there was an arch too. Got back to the main canyon and camped at the mouth of Booger Canyon.

Turkey Creek Cliff Dwelling Roof
A closer look at the Turkey Creek Cliff Dwelling’s roof
The arch in Deer Creek/Hellhole Canyon
The arch in Deer Creek/Hell Hole Canyon is perched high on a cliff

Day 3

  • Distance: 7.1 miles

Took a 1/2 mile detour up steep Booger Canyon to warm up my feet (I woke up to frozen shoes). It worked! Continued down the main canyon and back out to the West Trailhead. Was happy to see my Ford F-150 waiting there.



I do not know of any guidebooks that cover Aravaipa Canyon. If you have authored or know of one, please leave a comment on this post.

Topographic Maps

There are two USGS maps for Aravaipa Canyon. Brandenburg Mountain covers the west side and Booger Canyon covers the east side.


Aravaipa Canyon late afternoon deep shadows
At 1,000 feet deep, the late afternoon sun imposes deep shadows in Aravaipa Canyon
A beautiful spot to stop for lunch in Aravaipa Canyon. December 2018
Last light at the mouth of Creek/Hellhole Canyon
Last light illuminates the cliffs at the mouth of Deer Creek/Hell Hole Canyon. December 2018
Rugged, saguaro studded cliffs in Aravaipa Canyon
Rugged, saguaro studded cliffs in Aravaipa Canyon. December 2018
Fall colors and handsome cliffs in Aravaipa Canyon
Fall colors and handsome cliffs in Aravaipa Canyon. December 2018
Aravaipa Canyon mesquite trees
Aravaipa Canyon’s river banks are covered in mesquite trees. December 2018
Near the mouth of Aravaipa Canyon
Near the mouth of Aravaipa Canyon. December 2018